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The genocide is history, recent history, but history all the same. Peace was restored in 1995, and over subsequent years Rwanda has blossomed in an atmosphere of renewed political stability and steady economic growth. Meanwhile, the thousand hills are still there - every last one of them - and so, too, are the mountain gorillas, those gentle giants of the Virungas, living tranquility in their misty mountain home.
Only 10 years ago, Rwanda was Africa's premier gorilla-tracking destination, a status it is set to reclaim as it retreats from the front-page news to bask in the more glamorous surrounds of the glossy travel supplements. And tracking the magnificent mountain gorilla through the lush slopes of the Virungas remains without question the most thrilling and moving wildlife experience to be had on the world's wildest continent.
Yet there is so much more to Rwanda than gorillas. Take Akagera National Park, for instance, a mesmerizing tract of untrammeled African wilderness, where elephants still have the right of way, and vast numbers of hippo and crocodile languish along tree-lined lakes. Or Nyungwe Natural Forest, the largest extant tract of montane forest in East or Central Africa, home to chimpanzees, troops of 400-plus colobus monkeys, and hundreds of rare forest birds. Then there is Lake Kivu, an ocean-like freshwater expanse hemmed in by the dramatic mountains of the Rift Valley, the dramatic volcanic cones of Virungas, the secret delights of the myriad frost-fringed waterfalls. Best-know for its wealth of primates, Rwanda is also one of Africa's top birding countries, where an incredible 670 different species have been recorded within an area intermediate to that of Wales and Belgium. For amateur botanists, the gorgeous wildflowers of the forest and mountains are capped by more than 100 orchid species in Nyungwe alone, as well as the other-worldly giant lobelia, a floral refugee from a science-fiction film set. Virunga chain in the northwest. Rwanda is the most densely populated country in Africa, and heavily cultivated, with even the steepest hill outside of conservation areas being tightly terraced from base to peak.
The largest body of water is Lake Kivu in the Albertine Rift. Numerous lakes are dotted around the country, notably Burera, Ruhondo, Muhazi and Mugasera, follow the contours of the steep mountains which enclose them.
Butare: Rwanda's second city Butare, situated 135 km south of the capital, is the intellectual and cultural heart of the nation. Rwanda's National Museum houses the finest ethnographic collection in East Africa.
Parc National des Volcons: ?In the heart of Central Africa, so high up that you shiver more than you sweat, are great, old volcanoes towering up almost 15.000 feet, and nearly covered rich, green rainforest - The Virungas?. Dr Dian Fossey describing the intensely beautiful mountain range on which she spent the last two decades of her life studying Rwanda's endangered mountain gorillas. Nothing can prepare one for the impact of encountering a fully-grown silverback gorilla, up to three times as bulky as the average man, yet remarkably peaceable and tolerant of human visitors.
Nyungwe National Park: Nyungwe is extending for almost 1000km2 across the majestic hills of southeast Rwanda, is the largest ?island? of montane forest remaining in East or Central Africa: a rich and ancient center of unparalleled biodiversity and natural wonders.
Lake Kivu: Gisenyi and Kibuye are relaxing towns on the lake.
Getting there: SAA and Rwandair Express operate on a regular basis between Kigali and Johannesburg. Flight duration is 4 hours.
Currency: Rwanda Franc. Take cash and traveller’s cheques in US$ or other hard currency. Credit cards are not accepted!
Health: Much of Rwanda lies at too high an elevation for malaria to be a major concern, but the disease is present and prophylactic drugs are strongly recommended. Yellow fever certificate compulsory.
NB. SOUTH AFRICANS : Recent legislation requires that South African citizens who hold more than one passport must depart and re-enter South Africa on their South African passport. IMPORTANT - If you are travelling from a yellow-fever endemic area to South Africa, immigration officials may ask you for proof of your current Yellow Fever vaccination. It is important to keep this vaccination up to date and to keep it with you when travelling abroad. Be aware that the vaccination only becomes valid 10 days after inoculation and is valid for 10 years.
Visas: South African passport holders do not require visas. Contact us for other nationalities.
Time zone: GMT + 2 hours.
What to pack: Comfortable, casual and light clothing. Comfortable walking shoes and long pants are essential if visiting nature reserves. Take insect repellent, sunscreen and protective wear for protection from the tropical sun and rain. If you are Gorilla trekking a long-sleeved shirt is recommended to protect one from stinging nettles.
Customs allowance: 200 cigarettes and 1 litre of alcohol.
Luggage allowance: 20 kg & 1 item of hand luggage. Please note the airlines will no longer accept any item of baggage exceeding 32 kg in weight or size exceeding 900 mm x 720 mm x 450 mm. This is enforced to comply with Health & Safety regulations.
Language: Kinyarwanda, French and English are official languages.
Power supply: 230/240 volt, European type two-prong plugs.
Read: Guide to Rwanda: Janice Booth and Philip Briggs (Bradt Publications)
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